Loss of power after repairs

dave0919

SDD Junior Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Location
Prescott, AZ (5330')
After replacing some O-Rings and the rear plug to the HP oil gally on the right head, I have lost some low end power. Seals on the fuel deliver line were also replaced. Do I need to bleed somthing? Had the batteries out for a week.

Also has a low clutch pedal (clutch is new) any ideas

99 F350, 7.3 6 speed, LB & SRWD 3.73 Limited Slip (Would like to change to 4.09) Banks chip and exhaust

Thanks

Dave
 

powerboatr

living well in Texas
Joined
Jul 28, 2005
Messages
6,044
Reaction score
16
Location
Northeast Texas
I would surmise you still got tons of air in the hp gallery, bleed it, which is a messy thing . if had the plugs out then you got tons of air in there.
was she stuttering or smoking or just low on get up and go.

You may need to go run her hard and let her wind up to 3300 rpm for an few to help purge the air out.

pull teh fill port on the hp oil res. (engine off) and use a clear straw/tube to take a deep sample and see how much air is entrained in the oil.

as for the clutch.....
aint my ball of wax, hoss mihgt chime in he has had some intersting issues with clutches :eek:
 

dave0919

SDD Junior Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Location
Prescott, AZ (5330')
More info

It took a lot of cranking to get it started, and it was rough running for a few mins. Haven't had it on the freeway yet. I'll bleed it first.

:thanks
Dave
 

SDEric

Here's my pride!
Joined
Jun 10, 2005
Messages
220
Reaction score
0
Location
MD
Check the oil level too make sure you have enough in the pan/ :D
 

Hoss 350

My GSP, Dutch
Joined
Sep 8, 2005
Messages
883
Reaction score
1
Location
Spokane, WA
dave0919 said:
Also has a low clutch pedal (clutch is new) any ideas

99 F350, 7.3 6 speed, LB & SRWD 3.73 Limited Slip (Would like to change to 4.09) Banks chip and exhaust


Dave
Nice truck, seems a little familiar, though. Wonder why...

When you replaced the clutch (or when it was replaced) was the release arm and throwout bearing also replaced?

A couple things can cause low pedal.

1.) Bad bushings in the pedal linkage under the dash. Stick your head under the dash and watch the master cylinder actuator rod (the one that goes throught eh firewall) as you push the clutch pedal in and out with your hand. How far does the pedal move before the actuator rod actually moves? YOu can see the bushings in the connection between the pedal and actuator rod. If those bushings are sloppy (ie, pedal moves more than 1" at the MOST at the tip of the pad) then you have the problem identified. Now, prepare to be pissed off. YOu have to replace the entire clutch hydraulic system to fix this issue. It comes pre-bled as an assembly from Ford.

2.) A bent release arm. This one means you are about to be stranded on the side of the road. If your clutch makes a GRRRRRRRR noise and vibrates the pedal when you push all the way in, then you have about 5 uses left before the clutch fails and you will not be able to push the pedal in at all. If it is not making the noise, your arm could still be bent, and likely to fail at any moment. Did you replace it with an upgraded release arm when you replaced the clutch? If not, then I have a friendly little wager for you.... :(

3.) Air in the hydraulic system. YOu can't bleed it. Buy a new one if you tried. It comes pre-bled as a unit from Ford. Cost $135.

It seems that the hydraulic system on these is impossible to bleed. Even the techs couldn't so it, so Ford decided to package up the system as a pre-bled unit. Changing them out could NOT be easier though. It will take you 15 minutes, tops. PM me if it needs to be changed, I will walk you through it. Even if you are not much of a mechanic, you will pay big bucks to have it done, and I am confident my 5 year old nephew could do it if I walked him through it. No tools required.

Anyway, hope that helps. It is difficult to diagnose the second two items. We can eliminate #1 if you look. #2 can be eliminated only if you replaced it with the upgraded arm and fulcrum. #3 is a last resort, as there is really no way to tell if it is the problem. If #1 and #2 are not true, then the only one I have left is #3, though, so let me know what you find out...
 

dave0919

SDD Junior Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Location
Prescott, AZ (5330')
It worked..

Thanks for the help.. I removed one plug, cranked it over a few times and replaced the plug (with a new o-ring). Drove it for about 15 miles and my powerstroke is back:hail .

I installed the clutch and didn't see anything wrong with the lever. The MC rod moves as soon as you push the pedal. I'll pick up and MC/SC assy. and install it next week.

I am a retired forklift mechanic (32 years)so it should only take me 2 or 3 hours:thumbs

Never have been sold on my Banks Chip, it took them 3 trys to get it as it is now. She pulls strong above 1900. I went to one size smaller tire (free) to help towing in 6th @ 68 mph.

Thanks again

Dave
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
30,547
Messages
266,142
Members
14,676
Latest member
FlorWhitfe
Top