Going to tow for first time.....

[Ironmerganser]

.....and I need to know if there is anything I should do to prepare?

Now......I won't be towing much. In October, some buddies and I are taking a 12 day hunting trip up to Canada for geese, ducks and upland birds. I will only be pulling a 12 foot enclosed trailer full of decoys. I know it won't weigh much and the truck shouldn't have a problem at all pulling it, but I will be pulling it for almost 2500 miles in those 12 days.

I installed gauges last weekend so I have those to keep an eye on things. I just changed the front and rear diff fluid last month and I plan on changing the oil and getting the tranny flushed before we leave.

Anything else I should do to prepare or anything I should bring with me "just in case"?

Thanks!!!

 

[bushpilot]

if you have someone FLUSH the tranny make SURE they use MERCON SP
nothing else...not mercon or merconV they are NOT acceptable.

make sure you have a spare tire for the trailer, jack and the RIGHT
lug wrench (that fits the trailer wheels)...do NOT assume the tow
vechile lug wrench will fit.

60% of the weight should be FORWARD of the trailer axle (to reduce
or eliminate sway)...do yourself a favor and do a shake down tow...
even if its EMPTY tow the trailer around a get used to it.

 

[WD40]

Pack the wheel bearings on the trailer, unless they have been packed in the last 30 days. If the trailer is new then be sure to pack the wheel bearings.
I know that sounds dumb, but coming from the factory some have very little grease in them, so just do it.

 

[Ironmerganser]

Thanks Guys!!!

 

[Sawboy]

"do NOT assume the tow
vechile lug wrench will fit."



Wise words here........ask how I know!

 

[bushpilot]

AND....If you have a spare tired mounted on some kinda trailer mount...
make SURE the lug wrench you plan to use fits it TOO !

when i bought and welded my spare tire mount on i discovered the bolt
AND nut were NOT the same as the wheel studs & lug nuts...I installed
a completely new stud & lug nut that matched the trailer lug nuts.

I dont know what type of trailer you have but it might not be a bad
idea to have at least one complete set of trailer wheel bearings (inner &
outer) as well as the seals.

i carry extra trailer wheel bearings, races, seals, cotter pins, and
castle nuts...i even have a COMPLETE spare HUB...it might sound
excessive but i figure if i have it i might NEVER need it.

because im a sucker for tools i also carry a non-contact laser
thermometer w/ me...i use it to check the temp on each wheel/hub
HOPEFUL that a radically different temp. will be an EARLY warning of
a impending wheel bearing failure.

and its a hell of a lot easier to fix things on some exit ramp or parking
lot than it is to try and hunt the parts down.

if youre gonna carry these spare parts also carry the grease to pack
the bearing and the TOOLS that youll need to perform the repair...all of
this stuff fits into a small box and really doesnt add xtra cargo to speak of.

if any thing its worth the peace of mind.

 

[johnrrogers]

Several things that might help.
- Do a practice tow for 20 to 30 miles to see what it is like and get used to the trailer, preferably with hills.
- Practice backing up, nothing is more embarrasing than a problem in a parking lot full of other guys in their rigs.
- See how tight you can turn before the trailer hits the rear bumper, no scratches needed.
- Have at least 1, better 2 trailer spares.
- Have a means to jack the trailer to replace a wheel.
- Read the tire info on the side wall and find the max towing speed. The load sounds like it will not be too much so speed will be the limiting factor.
- Make sure all the lights work and that trailer registration is current.
- Check about insurance, our truck policy covers the trailer when towing and I have seperate RV insurance on top of it.
- Take a tire pressure gauge to make sure you are above minimum pressure when cold.

Good luck

 

[Boadie]

My neihbor received a ticket for not having functional breaks on his trailer(just unpluged) even though he was under the required weight to need brakes(empty trailer). I beleive it is 3000 and up GVWR needing brakes. Dont forget about the trailer lights and extra fuses.

 

[F350DRW1]

2500 miles is 3 spares in my towing math book. You can make a trailer jack for 2 axle trailer out of 2 by 10. Bottom plank 2 feet, middle 18", top 12". Pull or back onto accordingly and it will raise enough so you can change flat simply by elevating tire that still has air. If its single wheel, you need a jack. You will need a brake controller if 2 axles, singles usually dont have electric brakes. Or it could have a hydraulic inertia brake like some boat trailers, but doubtful. Speaking of lug nuts, not only should you check to see if you have the right size wrench, but also remove them and oil them. I can't tell you how many people with trailer flats I've stopped to help only to find out the lug nuts are rusted in place. This is a benefit of removing hubs and doing a real grease job, a little anti-seize or oil goes a long way to being able to take the damn thing apart when it decides it needs a tire. Also, speaking of tires, take a close look. Some trailers are used 2-3 times a year, and the tires have plenty of tread. They also have plenty of cracks between that tread from the ageing process of rubber and the effects of the sun. This is why you will see tires covered on trailers at R.V. parks. Have fun!

 

[bushpilot]

print this out...keep it in your truck and refer to it if you need help -->

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