john panattoni
SDD Junior Member
my glow plug relay is not got power to it ,not enz. the plugs was poping no 30 fuse change driver side valve plug and the idm in driver wheelwall any other suggestion
glow plug relay?
- Thread starter john panattoni
- Start date
sagebel
Stock? Pfft!
John, welcome to SDD! I am also a fellow WNY'r (Navy sent me to GA). What year is your truck? Folks here are pretty knowledgeable, you just need to let us know what you are driving.
With the truck off, check the GPR for input power. GPR is the rear relay behind the fuel bowl. The left terminal comes from the battery and should always have power. If you have input power, turn the key on and check the right side terminal. (You only have a limited time to do this depending on outdoor temps. I have someone turn the key and I check the meter.) If you do not have power, check the control circuit. (small wires at front and rear of relay. One is power and one is ground.) If you do not have power into the relay, there is a problem with the PCM sensing outdoor temp or a fuse problem.
If you have control power and battery power to the relay, replace the relay. Go to NAPA and buy a GPR 109. It will work but will only use one mounting tab. The direct replacement for the stock GPR will be over $80. GPR 109 is around $30.
If the GPR is working properly, you may have a problem with the actual glow plugs. You can also test those without tearing into the valve covers by disconnecting the flat connectors located in the middle of the inner edge of the valve covers. There are 8 pins on each connector. the outer 2 pins on each end are the glow plugs. DO NOT touch the 4 pins in the middle. They are for the injectors. Using a meter, check each glowplug pin (valve cover side)to ground(resistance). A good glow plug will read .8 to 1.2 ohms. A bad glow plug will be less than .7 ohms.
I hope this helps. You first post is sort of difficult to understand. Let us know what you find.
With the truck off, check the GPR for input power. GPR is the rear relay behind the fuel bowl. The left terminal comes from the battery and should always have power. If you have input power, turn the key on and check the right side terminal. (You only have a limited time to do this depending on outdoor temps. I have someone turn the key and I check the meter.) If you do not have power, check the control circuit. (small wires at front and rear of relay. One is power and one is ground.) If you do not have power into the relay, there is a problem with the PCM sensing outdoor temp or a fuse problem.
If you have control power and battery power to the relay, replace the relay. Go to NAPA and buy a GPR 109. It will work but will only use one mounting tab. The direct replacement for the stock GPR will be over $80. GPR 109 is around $30.
If the GPR is working properly, you may have a problem with the actual glow plugs. You can also test those without tearing into the valve covers by disconnecting the flat connectors located in the middle of the inner edge of the valve covers. There are 8 pins on each connector. the outer 2 pins on each end are the glow plugs. DO NOT touch the 4 pins in the middle. They are for the injectors. Using a meter, check each glowplug pin (valve cover side)to ground(resistance). A good glow plug will read .8 to 1.2 ohms. A bad glow plug will be less than .7 ohms.
I hope this helps. You first post is sort of difficult to understand. Let us know what you find.
john panattoni
SDD Junior Member
i have a 99 f350 dually 7.3 turbo,auto. keep blowing 30 fuse have a fuse trip tool on it and keep reset it when i unplug the valve cover it dont trip then plug them in and it take a couple times to start it by turning the key on and off. when it starts it runs ruff and white and light blue smoke out the ex. but when its warm its ok . any other info i can post i will just tryin to pinpoint this so i can drive it thanks john
sagebel
Stock? Pfft!
Just a WAG but try disconnecting the GPR and see if it blows the fuse. Try both the small and big wires.
john panattoni
SDD Junior Member
still blowing fuse took it to freinds shop today will lets you know what it is
BJS
Full Access Member
sounds like a bad UVC Harness but I'm not positive what the fuse you're blowing is I'd guess IDM
Toptech
SDD Junior Member
Which 30 amp fuse are you blowing? If it is for the fuel heater, which also controls the "wait to start light". Disconnect the electrical connector on the side of the fuel filter housing and see if it still blows. If it doesn't blow, replace the fuel heater.