Dahl 100 install (questions)

[BIG JOE]

I "Horse Traded" some stuff for a Dahl 100 filter, new, in the box. I've been want'n to replace the pre-pump in-line filter (cheezy), nows my chance.

On a X-Cab, where have you folks mounted them ? Any tricks ? Are there holes in the frame ? Do I mount it on the frame ?

Any How To's would be appreciated.

TIA,
JOE

 

[Fire1]

Good question? I'll be getting one soon too hopefully. Any tips would be great.

 

[Tbar]

I don't have the Dahl but this is where I put mine.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/43232716/46796492BQhvIW


Tbar

 

[redpsd]

I don't have the x-cab but the CC, and here is where I mounted my dahl.

dahl

I mounted mine to the drivers seat bolts that come out of the floor. You need a metric nut and the size of it escapes me right now. You will also need to drill the holes in the stock dahl mounting bracket out just a bit. As you can see it hangs down below the xfer case protecting it from all sorts of nastys.

red

 

[Hoss 350]

I "Horse Traded" some stuff for a Dahl 100 filter, new, in the box. I've been want'n to replace the pre-pump in-line filter (cheezy), nows my chance.

On a X-Cab, where have you folks mounted them ? Any tricks ? Are there holes in the frame ? Do I mount it on the frame ?

Any How To's would be appreciated.

TIA,
JOE

Joe,
I do not have a picture, but what I did was mount it right in front of the fuel tank ont he inside of the frame rail. It is the only place on a 4x4 that I could find to mount it. Here are my recommendations in no particular order:

1.) There are a zillion factory-drilled holes right in that location (crawl under the Ex-cab part of the cab, directly in front of the fuel tank, that is the spot). Find a set of holes that look like likely candidates, and get a piece of thick, hot-rolled channel drilled for those holes and for the holes on your dahl. I used an angle and went off factory holes on top of the frame rail to make the unit ride higher up inside the frame. Check out your options.

2.) Make sure that you use solid hot-rolled steel. Any pot-metal bracket will allow the Dahl to shake up and down. This is bad, ever shook a can of soda? It frees up air BIG TIME. I used a pot-metal hanger that allowed ever so slight amounts of shake, and it looked like I'd put an aerator in the line... Which brings me to my next point...

3.) Since you are putting the filter in an area where the fuel line is solid steel, you will need to replace the line from the tank to the filter, then from the filter to the pump. Don't panic, you won't need to drop the tank... I went to my local hose suppier (Spokane House of Hose, I kid you not... ) and got about 6 feet of clear poly hose. Then, you sit your butt down with your feet towards the center of the truck, and your body leaning back against the inside of the bed skin, right in front of the rear tire. This will cause your head to be right in the area where the frame rail dives down away from the bed structure, between the frame rail and the side of the truck. Don't lean too hard on the bed skin, it is really soft and you can push it out super easy. If you could lean on it, this part would be super simple, but you can't, so your abs will be sore when it is all said and done. In the location where the bed rail dives away from the bed structure, you will see the pickup and return lines for the fuel tank in the 4" gap between the bed and frame rail. It is tight, but I am 6'3" and 295 pounds, and I got in there, so unless you are a friggin bohemoth, you should be able to, also. The supply line (IIRC) is furthest towards the rear of the truck (the bigger of the two lines). Use your quick disconnect tool (you have one, right?) and pull that line off the tank. Then, get a file or knife or something and hone out the metal pickup tube, so the crimp at the end is smooth. This can free up air, also. Then, slide your new hose on, route it to the filter, tighten the hose clamp on the tank (tricky, but do-able), tighten on to the filter, then run a second piece of hose from the filter to the pump. Zip tie at regular intervals to the frame, being careful not to collapse the hose and create restriction (which can free up air, too).

You may have to take the filter can off and fill with fuel to get the pump to prime. Once primed, cycle the key on and off a couple times, waiting for the pump to cycle fully each time, then start-er up. You will see LOTS of air for about the next 20 miles. THen, your clear hose should show no air at all. If it does, you will be able to see what is causing it because your whole pre-pump system is clear now. When I had air, my first thought was I needed to drop the tank again, until I saw that the fuel coming from the tank was air free. The air came from after the filter. Then I thought my filter was leaking air, but it wasn't. So I thought restriction. As I was screwing with it, I bumped it,it shook, and air came out everywhere. That is when I found out pot metal doesn't make a good bracket. Changed it out, and haven't had trouble since. Feel free to PM if you need any more direction. I don't know how good my directions were, tired this morning, just got back from ELK HUNTING all week.

 

[BIG JOE]

Thanks guys ! I'm guna do the install tomorro, between the 3 of ya.... I bet I can get it in & on there. I'm 2WD so, I think I should be able to find room under there. I've rolled around under the truck,look'n, useing yer Pics and How To's. I think I'v got a place on the frame rail picked out, near the pump. I made a bracket out of some 3/8s steel plate Yata, Yata, Yata..... When I git'r done, if it's a cool way of doing it, I'll Post a DIY.

Thanks again.

This kinda stuff is what makes this site.... what it is. GREAT

JOE

 

[Hoss 350]

Thanks guys ! I'm guna do the install tomorro, between the 3 of ya.... I bet I can get it in & on there. I'm 2WD so, I think I should be able to find room under there. I've rolled around under the truck,look'n, useing yer Pics and How To's. I think I'v got a place on the frame rail picked out, near the pump. I made a bracket out of some 3/8s steel plate Yata, Yata, Yata..... When I git'r done, if it's a cool way of doing it, I'll Post a DIY.

Thanks again.

This kinda stuff is what makes this site.... what it is. GREAT

JOE

Did you have any luck, Joe? We are awaiting the results eagerly... I hope someone had luck with their truck this weekend, anyway!!!

 

[BIG JOE]

Did you have any luck, Joe? We are awaiting the results eagerly... I hope someone had luck with their truck this weekend, anyway!!!

Yip... Got'r Dun. Got to look'n 'round under there somemore, ended up mounting it by drilling up thru the floorboard, under the driver seat. Here's how I did it: (this is on a 2wd X-cab, but at the tranny brace area they can't be much different ?)

Lay'n under the truck, you'll see the 2 REAR, Driver Seat mounting bolts. just forward of them is the Tranny brace. There is a flat area on the floorboard. I split the distance between the frame rail and the driveshaft and driilled 4 holes, up thru the sheet metal and thru the carpet, comes out, under the drivers seat. Stuck some wire thru the holes so I could see where they came thru the carpet. With a razor knife, I cut 4 small slits in the carpet, stuck the bolts (with flat washers) down thru the holes and under the carpet. Mounted the bracket.

I Used 4, 2 1/2 inch 5/16s bolts, Ny-loc nuts & lock washers. The whole assembly is right behind the Tranny cross brace, about 16-18 inches behind and inboard of the fuel pump. Purdy well protected there, I think. When I got done, Its REALLY well attached... Like it's part of the Truck body. Try to move the filter (?) you move the truck. I'm happy with it there. You can neal down and see just the bottom of the sight bowl without crawl'n under the truck.

Used my Shade-geneering skills and : Used enough (Did'n Measure it) fuel hose so I could remove the filter assembly from the mounting bracket, drop it down, turn it upside down, open the drain valve.... fuel then gravity feeds into the filter, purgeing all the air. I'm think'n this little goody will make filter changes easier (too). Zip tied the hoses so the don't flop around.

It's about a 4 beer whilst BS'n with the neighbor, job. ('Bout 2 1/2 hours)



JOE

 

[your2slow]

Hoss 350,

Can you post some pics of your install? I'm having a hard time visualizing it and want to make sure I know what you're talking about with the hot-rolled steel.

 

[CHPMustang]

Excellent Joe! Can't wait to get our Dahl 100 kit also

Was thinkun of installing a vacuum gauge with the kit but unsure yet.

Bill