Code P0196

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I still have the rough idle issue so we ran the tests today, buzz, contribution tests etc...and everything came out fine. The only code that was pulled was the engine oil temp sensor range/performance P0196.

Can anyone explane it to me? I have no idea what it means and I can't seem to find out.

Oh and the idelier pully under the alternator is getting ready to go, where is the best place to get a replacement?

Thanks and happy fathers day :)
 
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MUDWHISTLE

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Can't help on the rough idle issue but the part number for the bearing is a 6203-RS OR AN RSJ from napa the rsj has the metal dust seals. hope this helps.
 

3-StarJ.R.

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0196 EOT EOT sensor ckt performance (96 MY) Aborts KOER CCT test Engine not up to operating temp., leaking thermostat

Have to warm the motor up some more for the contribution test.....
 

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Thanks for the part number. Can you replace just the roller or do you need to do the whole thing?

I kinda had a feeling it had cooled off. Guess we'll try it again next week.
Thanks
 

94f450sd

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you can replace just the bearing in the pully or buy a whole new pully.advance auto parts had one in stock for my truck the other day
 

MUDWHISTLE

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Rookie said:
Thanks for the part number. Can you replace just the roller or do you need to do the whole thing?

I kinda had a feeling it had cooled off. Guess we'll try it again next week.
Thanks

Do you have the plastic or the steel idler? if you have the plastic probly a good idea to replace the whole idler as I understand idler is usually destroyed when trying to remove the old bearing.:rolleyes:
 

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It's the original unit. I just pulled the belt to check if it was loose but everything seems really tight. There's no play in it at all. The issue is the belt is riding about a 1/4" to the front of the roller and the tensioner looks like it's "leaning" towards the fan. My brother in law is a master mechanic and he was concerned about it. He actually said he just replaced one the other day that looked like mine. I'm leaning towards replacing the whole thing...
So if I do it can I pull the borrom pully, the one under the tensioner, to get it off?
 

MUDWHISTLE

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Rookie said:
It's the original unit. I just pulled the belt to check if it was loose but everything seems really tight. There's no play in it at all. The issue is the belt is riding about a 1/4" to the front of the roller and the tensioner looks like it's "leaning" towards the fan. My brother in law is a master mechanic and he was concerned about it. He actually said he just replaced one the other day that looked like mine. I'm leaning towards replacing the whole thing...
So if I do it can I pull the borrom pully, the one under the tensioner, to get it off?

I would just take the bolt out of the center of the idler bearing and see what is going on, IIRC there is a plastic insert in there that keeps the idler pully where it needs to be maybe something is wrong with it. All you have to do is loosen the belt and removed the bolt for the idler with a torx bit and inspect it.
 

94f450sd

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a little info for the EOT range/perform code

since ive been doing contribution tests on my truck everyday since saturday i decided to see what info there was in my scanner for this code.

the cylinder contribution test will not run untill the engine oil temp is above 170*f.you can also trick the pcm into thinking the EOT is 170* by putting a 2.2K resister in the plug for the EOT sensor so that you can runn the CCT if the symptom is worse when cold.
 

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You could move the pulley and the assy back and forth. I changed out the whole assy and the belt tracks straight and isn't forcing it off the drive pulleys any more.

We're going to try and run the contribution test again this coming weekend. I have a 20 mile drive to his station so it should be good and warm by then. We waited until after the oil change to run the tests so I guess it cooled off too much.

As always, thanks for the help...:sweet
 

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