Clutch replacement

[f100cleveland]

I think it is time to replace the clutch and was looking at getting a south bend. Where can I get the best deal on one? I've seen hayes clutches that advertise a slightly larger disc and more holding pressure than stock. Has anyone heard of any luck with these. Also has anyone ever replaced the rear main seal as I plan on doing mine when I do the clutch cuz it leaks bad. Any info or ideas to help me out would be great.

 

[Hoss 350]

I think it is time to replace the clutch and was looking at getting a south bend. Where can I get the best deal on one? I've seen hayes clutches that advertise a slightly larger disc and more holding pressure than stock. Has anyone heard of any luck with these. Also has anyone ever replaced the rear main seal as I plan on doing mine when I do the clutch cuz it leaks bad. Any info or ideas to help me out would be great.

I got the SB Con-O, which is a larger (13") disc, non-tapered flywheel, and I love it. It holds a lot better than stock, and the "gear chatter" or "rollover" sound when lugging has virtually been eliminated. There are a bunch that got the COn-OFE, which is one-side ceramic (or ferrous metallic), the other side organic, IIRC. I like the smooth operation of the CON-O, though...

YOu can't go wrong with south bend. BLackcloud is a very good vendor to deal with, IMHO.

That said, BE SURE to get:
1.) a new, upgraded release arm ($35). My clutch was replaced only 6,000 miles before the old release arm went bad and I had to do it again.
2.) New release arm pivot block (free with release arm).
3.) Throwout bearing (comes with clutch)
4.) Kevlar pilot bushing (get rid of the roller bushing, it will destroy your trans) it comes with the new flywheel in the SB kit (new flywheel because the clutch is bigger)
5.) And finally, check out my Wiki article on this change-out...

Make sure you leave it in gear when you take the shifter off... You cannot get it in gear without the shifter on, and you will need to spin the tailshaft to get the splines to line up at reinstallation.

Do not rely on the alignment tool to align the clutch. Do it by eyeball using the alginment tool. The disc can move around quite a bit even with the alignment tool securely in place.

I liked disconnecting the t-case from the trans. It made the job much easier. You do what you think is best. If you have any trouble, PM me, and I'll try to get back to you as soon as possible...

 

[f100cleveland]

Do the 2001 models have the up dated release arm or do I need to replace it? On Blackclouds site it shows it for 1999-2000 years. Will the Con-O stand up to a sled pull if that would ever happen (again). My clutch has been makeing noise for over a year every time I push the clutch in.

 

[roosterdiesel]

I have the OFE and like it! I thought that the '01's had the upgraded fork not sure though. I replaced mine when mine was done, the tech and I sat them side by side and couldn't tell the difference. Guess I might have had the upgraded one.

There are a few places to get the SB stuff. I didn't have good after the sale service from my vendor. If you want I'll pm you who it was. I ended up calling South Bend themselves for some tech questions on their kit.

I don't think the Con O will hold up to many pulls. I know they don't like to be smoked! I've had my OFE for about 9 months and 33,000 worry free miles. BTW, my clutch went to the track within the first 150 miles or so on it, since then it's been down the track around 150 times or so. Still tows my 20' gooseneck with LOTS of beef smooth as butter!