Clutch/hydraulic? woes

[JeepOnRock]

Still working to figure this out.

Had the clutch fail to diengage, and the pedal went to the floor. Rolled into a parking lot while snatching it out of gear. Popped the hood, the reservoir was full, but the pedal wasn't disengaging the clutch. There was a "squishy" sound at the bottom of the range when I pumped it by hand. Then, it picked up pressure and acted fine. I went on my way.

About 10 minutes later, it happened again. A few people got a good cut off as I rolled around the corner and into a parking lot. Did the same things, it made the same noises, but the clutch didn't come back. I can't find a leak, puddle, or evidence of a fluid blow-out. The reservoir still looks full. Pedal will sit on the floor... ok, the firewall.

I limped it home. I searched and saw something about a sealed hydraulic set from the dealer, but I don't see it listed with Powerstrokeshop.com or a mention from the local dealer.

The rig is a 2000 F350 DRW C/C 4x4... obviously with a 6 speed... 7.3Lpsd.

Help?

 

[roosterdiesel]

With the pedal on the floor I would think that you could've broken the clutch fork. IIRC the 2000's don't have the updated fork.

I thought PS SHop use to have the pre-bled hydraulic assembly.

 

[Hoss 350]

Still working to figure this out.

Had the clutch fail to diengage, and the pedal went to the floor. Rolled into a parking lot while snatching it out of gear. Popped the hood, the reservoir was full, but the pedal wasn't disengaging the clutch. There was a "squishy" sound at the bottom of the range when I pumped it by hand. Then, it picked up pressure and acted fine. I went on my way.

About 10 minutes later, it happened again. A few people got a good cut off as I rolled around the corner and into a parking lot. Did the same things, it made the same noises, but the clutch didn't come back. I can't find a leak, puddle, or evidence of a fluid blow-out. The reservoir still looks full. Pedal will sit on the floor... ok, the firewall.

I limped it home. I searched and saw something about a sealed hydraulic set from the dealer, but I don't see it listed with Powerstrokeshop.com or a mention from the local dealer.

The rig is a 2000 F350 DRW C/C 4x4... obviously with a 6 speed... 7.3Lpsd.

Help?

The unit from Ford is a pre-sealed, pre-bled unit for $134. It is pretty much your only choice. The plus is that it is WAY easy to install. The master cylinder just pushes in, turns 1/4 turn CCW, and pulls right out. The slave does the same. BE CAREFUL when you remove the slave, as the acutato shaft will want to fall out into the bellhousing, with obvious inmplications. No tools are even needed to complete the job, besides a larger screwdriver to pry the clutch actuator rod off of the clutch pedal (the first thing you do.)

1.) Using a screwdriver, pry the clutch actuator rod off of the clutch pedal. Pry it off by pushing it towards the driver's side of the truck, if memory serves. Don't worry about saving the bushings in teh rod, a replacement comes with your new master/slave kit.

2.) Under the hood, grab hold of the master cylinder, push IN on it, and spin 1/4 turn CCW, then pull it OUT of the truck.

3.) Follow the line down the frame, cutting the zip ties holding it on as you go, until you crawl under the truck and locate the slave cylinder.

4.) Push the slave IN, turn 1/4 turn CCW, and pull it out.. BE CAREFUL as described above...

5.) Leave the slave hang on the line, crawl out from under the truck, grab the master, and pull the whole mess out by pulling up. The slave will come out with the line.

Install the new setup in reverse, again, being careful that the new slave actuator rod does not fall off in the bellhousing. Zip tie the line loosely to a couple places.

The last and final thing you do after you are satisifed with everything is install the actuator rod for the pedal assembly, by pushign ti into themaster through the firewall, then attaching it to the clutch pedal.

20 minutes, tops.....

 

[Hoss 350]

With the pedal on the floor I would think that you could've broken the clutch fork. IIRC the 2000's don't have the updated fork.

I thought PS SHop use to have the pre-bled hydraulic assembly.

I don't know, Antonio. When my fork broke, my pedal would not go IN, it was stuck UP no matter how hard I pushed because the slave cylinder was at it's limit with nothing to push against to reset it. I ended up blowing my master by STANDING on the pedal to get it to go in, and it POPPED all of a sudden, then went to the floor and stayed there.

On the floor staying there is almost definitly a hydraulic issue. Just my HO....

 

[roosterdiesel]

Hoss.

I haven't had any hydraulic or fork issues. Just thought it could be the fork since I think he has the old one. Your points make me believe it's the hydraulics too.

 

[Hoss 350]

I haven't had any hydraulic or fork issues. Just thought it could be the fork since I think he has the old one. Your points make me believe it's the hydraulics too.

Lucky you!

 

[JeepOnRock]

I hate to be a pest, but is there a part number you might have floating around for this assembly? I can find the hose, master, and slave, but I don't see a pre-bled assembly... and of course it's a holiday weekend...

And Amarillo. Don't people from Iowa marvel at how flat it is there? But you can get a good and giant steak.

 

[JeepOnRock]

Anyone??

Got it... see post below.

 

[roosterdiesel]

Hoss 350 would have the number since he's installed one. I haven't and have searched for the part# with no luck. I know I've seen it on either PS SHop or 1st Fordpart online. But neither site has it now.

 

[JeepOnRock]

I got the part at my local dealer. They wanted $147.21 + tax for the beasty, but we were able to agree on $132.49. The part number is 2C3Z-7C522-C.

However, it didn't have the little clip for the actuator rod to the master cylinder.

That was a real PITA (and I'm not done, because I have to put the under dash stuff back together as soon as I can get the parts... and the thunderstorm is over).

I didn't have an issue with the slave rod falling out, but I could see it as a problem. The nylon thingy that holds it together during assembly wanted to hang up in the opening. If I hadn't read the steps above, I probably would have lost it.

The only thing I would add is that the switch that cuts off the cruise when the clutch goes in can be a little tricky (that is spelled I-b-r-o-k-e-i-t) to remove. It does have to come off to get the rod out of the truck. The next thing I would say is that I had a ____ time removing the rod from the old master cylinder (should there been one of those in the kit, too?). I was able to do it by pulling apart the old one and beating some stuff until it gave up and came out.

I appreciate the help. Those directions probably saved me a good hour of frustration trying to figure it out.