CAT extended life coolant and a proper change

[HorseHauler]

My Dad is wondering about doing a coolant change on his truck. He bought the truck a while ago, and we don't know a thing about the coolant. I've read a decent amount about cavitation, and have been pretty much convinced that CAT extended life anti cavitiation coolant is the way to go. That way, we will always have the anti cavitation stuff in there and won't have to deal with testing, adding, etc (which will be neglected I'm sure).

I read somewhere that it was only $6 a gallon, but upon inspection premixed stuff is $21 a gallon, which is just over $100 for a coolant flush. Anyone know somewhere cheaper?

And since it is good for 750K supposedly, which would mean this 150K engine will sadly but definately die with this coolant, what should we do to do it right. With the Mercedes I own (which has a VERY sophisticated cooling system), most people recommend running some stuff through to remove any oil present, then a citrus flush, then putting the coolant in. Any such thing/recommendation for a PSD?

 

[JOAT]

Any time you switch coolants it's wise to use some kind of flush. Then flush that repeatedly with water till it drains clear. CAT may have a specific recommended flush, though any good name brand flush should be fine.

If you go with premixed the first fill, it will be hard to get all the water from flushing out so your coolant will be diluted.

Check Peterbilt dealers for the coolant. If they have it they will probably be the cheapest place to find it locally. Same goes for filters and stuff.

 

[96P_Stroke4x4]

IIRC i picked up the extended life coolant at the international dearler for $14 or $15 a gallon. when i flushed mine, i removed the drivers side block plug and the plug at the bottom of the radiator, drained the coolant, ran water from a hose into the overflow bottle untill it came out clear, drained again, put the plugs back in then filled with the red coolant to the proper level, ran it a bit to get the air out then topped it off

 

[johndeere9610]

Thats is pretty much what I did to. I change mind to the red stuff when I had to re o-ring the water-oil cooler. then about 3,000 miles later I blowed a hose so I got to fill it all over agian.
Rusty

 

[Crumm]

I run CAT ELC but before you switch you should know that it is not recommended by Ford. ELC Coolants are claimed to interact poorly with certain seals that are present in the Older Power Stroke Diesel Engines. I have never had a problem and have run ELC for about 6 years now. You can read this article and make your own call. If you do decide to do the switch that web site also has a good article on draining and flushing.

 

[geonc]

I run CAT ELC but before you switch you should know that it is not recommended by Ford. ELC Coolants are claimed to interact poorly with certain seals that are present in the Older Power Stroke Diesel Engines. I have never had a problem and have run ELC for about 6 years now. You can read this article and make your own call. If you do decide to do the switch that web site also has a good article on draining and flushing.

YUP! What he said

I have Cat ELC in my '96 the past 4 years with no ill effects and ran Rotella ELC in my '90 IDI for the better part of 200k mi also with no ill effects.

Prepare to open your wallet a little tho.....Around here CAT ELC at the P-car dealers runs $10 a gallon and trust me you WILL CRY when you see this stuff leaking/pouring out from a bad w/p- hose or clamp failure

IF and I say IF you do have a failure on the highway and need to put in tap water etc.....sadly you will contaminate the ELC and must drain and flush the cooling system due to the minerals in water attaching themselves to the ELC and turning it to mudd........

 

[JOAT]

snip....

Prepare to open your wallet a little tho.....Around here CAT ELC at the P-car dealers runs $10 a gallon and trust me you WILL CRY when you see this stuff leaking/pouring out from a bad w/p- hose or clamp failure

IF and I say IF you do have a failure on the highway and need to put in tap water etc.....sadly you will contaminate the ELC and must drain and flush the cooling system due to the minerals in water attaching themselves to the ELC and turning it to mudd........

I know that feeling... I run $28 a gallon Evans. Heater hose pulled enough to lose a few quarts when I had the tranny out. Also has to be dumped if contaminated with more than about 3% water....

 

[geonc]

I know that feeling... I run $28 a gallon Evans. Heater hose pulled enough to lose a few quarts when I had the tranny out. Also has to be dumped if contaminated with more than about 3% water....

I considered Evans but plus I was a bit hinky of the "boil out" procedure....of course this was back in '02 with my IDI.....went with Rotella ELC