Better Oil Pan???

[Tail_Gunner]

While I was swaping out my CPS with one of the blue CPS's, I noticed that my oil pan was looking nasty with rust. I've been using rubberized undercoating spray in an attempt to protect it from winter road elements. But it only does so much.

It's obvious that these factory oil pans suck when it comes to corrosion resistance. Has anyone stumbled across a better oil pan for the 7.3 Powerstroke? A galvanized steel, powdercoated, cast aluminum or whatever, just something THAT WON'T RUST!!!!!!!!

With how many Powerstrokes on the road with rusting oil pans, you'd think someone would have identified a need and a potential market.


Now for question #2:
What is with the PIA method of sealing the oil pans to the engine? I've been told that there is a special sealant/adhesive that needs to be used and it has to be allowed to cure for "X" number of hours. What is so friggen special about these oil pans that you can't use regular gasket sealant like on a small block gasser? Heck, it sounds like it's easier gluing the heat tiles to the bottom of the Space Shuttle than it is to put an oil pan on the bottom of a 7.3 Powerstroke.

 

[catdsltech]

For sealing the oil pan, if I remember right International uses gasket eliminator. You can get the stuff from an auto parts store. I've personaly used locktite's gasket eliminator, it cures in the absense of air. Cat uses their own named stuff to seal off alot of parts that contain oil. As far as putting a better coating on your oil pan, I saw that Sears has a gun that applies the powder coat material for under $200. Don't know much else about it but looks like a great tool to add to the collection.

Jared

 

[Rex-a-FORD]

Ford has a TSB that discusses oil pan rusting and to coat the pan with the stuff they recommend.

You might want to try contacting a Ford dealer and see if you can get the coating stuff.

Can't remember where I saw the TSB, I'll see if I can find it.

Found it:

7.3 Oil Pan Corrosion:
Some engines may exhibit oil pan corrosion if operatted in high salt enviroments. If corrosion is found, the pan should be cleaned of oil and dirt, sanded and cleaned. Apply Motorcraft PM-13-A High Temp Anti-corrosion Coating to the pan. TSB #05-20-3

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Ford has a TSB that discusses oil pan rusting and to coat the pan with the stuff they recommend.

I've seen that TSB before. I don't think it's a solution as much as it is a "band-aid" to prolong rust through until the vehicle is out of warranty and Ford doesn't have to pay for it.

A solution won't involve a stock oil pan with a thin layer of cheap paint. What is really needed is something with a coating of HIGH QUALITY corrosion preventative or an aftermarket oil pan. After living in the U.P. for 22 of the last 31 years and seeing how Fords hold up to northern winters, I'm convinced Ford hasn't got a clue as to what corrosion resistance is.

 

[Rex-a-FORD]

Yep, 10 - 4 on the band-aid.............

I haven't seen anything on an aftermarket oil pan....so I was just trying to buy ya' some time till somebody comes out with one.

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Yep, 10 - 4 on the band-aid.............

I haven't seen anything on an aftermarket oil pan....so I was just trying to buy ya' some time till somebody comes out with one.

 

[DZL JIM]

No need for an aftermarket oil pan. It's the paint job that sucks.
When I replaced my pan, I bought a new 1 from the dealer. Sand blasted it, painted it with a good galvanizing primer, then several coats of rustoleum. That was 5 years ago (?) and it still looks really great.
Nothing wrong with the pan, just put a good paint job on it.


As for the gasket maker, the IH gray stuff is super sticky. Way better than anything you can get at a parts store. Only $35 or something for a tiny tube that's just enough to do the pan, though.

 

[Tail_Gunner]

No need for an aftermarket oil pan. It's the paint job that sucks.
When I replaced my pan, I bought a new 1 from the dealer. Sand blasted it, painted it with a good galvanizing primer, then several coats of rustoleum. That was 5 years ago (?) and it still looks really great.
Nothing wrong with the pan, just put a good paint job on it.


As for the gasket maker, the IH gray stuff is super sticky. Way better than anything you can get at a parts store. Only $35 or something for a tiny tube that's just enough to do the pan, though.

I was thinking that is probably the sort of route one would have to go. The specific idea I was pondering was getting an oil pan and sending it somewhere to get hot dip galvanized. I used to have a snowmobile trailer that was galvanized steel. It held up extremely well, in fact I never found any rust at all on any of the treated areas.

All I have to do now is figure out how or where I can do or get the job done without it costing me $1,000+ to pull the engine just so the oil pan can be changed.-mad Whata buncha crap!!!!!

Maybe someone would want to host an oil pan party??

 

[DART505]

No need for an aftermarket oil pan. It's the paint job that sucks.
When I replaced my pan, I bought a new 1 from the dealer. Sand blasted it, painted it with a good galvanizing primer, then several coats of rustoleum. That was 5 years ago (?) and it still looks really great.
Nothing wrong with the pan, just put a good paint job on it.


As for the gasket maker, the IH gray stuff is super sticky. Way better than anything you can get at a parts store. Only $35 or something for a tiny tube that's just enough to do the pan, though.

Believe me next time the motor comes out it WILL have the IH sealer.I put my new motor & oil pan in with permatex ultra grey & the POS leaks-mad -mad !!I did'nt want to pull it back out again but have removed some with the factory stuff & it is hard to remove without trashing the pan.When the pan comes off we always put a new pan!

 

[DavidJ]

How about linex or rhino lining? Will it stick? Will it keep the oil from cooling? It sure is tough and you can get it sprayed on smooth. Or it may just be the stupidest thing you ever heard?! Just a thought.