bears4x4
grease monkey
im looking for the pics for the wiki Shimming the 99-03 7.3L using the Big Joe washer method
they are gone form that site
they are gone form that site
anybody have the pics to wiki Shimming the 99-03
- Thread starter bears4x4
- Start date
The pics have been gone for quite some time now.
But once you get started.. jus follow the steps...there ain't nothing to it.
If you decide to do it, and have any questions.. le'me know.
Joe
On edit: I re-read the narrative.. wording seems a bit jumbled, but the steps are still in sequence.
But once you get started.. jus follow the steps...there ain't nothing to it.
If you decide to do it, and have any questions.. le'me know.
Joe
On edit: I re-read the narrative.. wording seems a bit jumbled, but the steps are still in sequence.
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do yourself a favor..
get a new regulator cap before you start..
the local school bus garage (International dealer) said it's common for that to crack at the base of the threads
mine was..
never could figure out that fuel leak until I was putting the regulator cap back on and it split at the base of the threads.. cheap cast pot-metal..
I used the BB method..
get a new regulator cap before you start..
the local school bus garage (International dealer) said it's common for that to crack at the base of the threads
mine was..
never could figure out that fuel leak until I was putting the regulator cap back on and it split at the base of the threads.. cheap cast pot-metal..
I used the BB method..
bears4x4
grease monkey
whats the BB method?
the BB method is just like it sounds..
you stuff a BB under the spring and then reinstall the cap.
simple, effective, but non-adjustable like the #4 screw & nut..
what happened on mine was this..
I had been smelling fuel for about a week and couldn't seem to find any leak..
I decided one Saturday night (note day & time) to finally break down and shim the FPR..
took off the return line..
took out the two bolts holding the cap
took out the spring..
inserted the BB
replaced the spring
reinstalled the cap
threaded the return line back on by hand
and as soon as the seal made contact, the threaded neck broke.
never even touched a wrench to it.
there is a Motorcraft number for the cap..
also available from IHC
JMO but the BB method, more often than not, results in a, To High, FPR PSI..
When I do the Base Line (stock) PSI, I've found pressures from 40 to 60 psi.. a BB is often to thick.. I get 80+ psi, and sometimes fully depresses the spring.. to the point that the FPR cap Will break because the total length of the spring & sleeve, with the BB in it.. is to long. Again.. because the OEM Spring has no Spec.. for length.. or strength.(?)
The washer method, although a PIA way, seems to work best (for me). I add 2 and often get 70 psi.. if not, 3 gets me there (working from the base line reading). #4 SS is best, but Brass works too. They both make a good Seat.. for the spring, IN.. the sleeve.
Joe
* Seems I read here on SDD recently.. something about being able to get a Spring from IH with a 70 psi Spec ? Maybe IHC Power would know about that ??
When I do the Base Line (stock) PSI, I've found pressures from 40 to 60 psi.. a BB is often to thick.. I get 80+ psi, and sometimes fully depresses the spring.. to the point that the FPR cap Will break because the total length of the spring & sleeve, with the BB in it.. is to long. Again.. because the OEM Spring has no Spec.. for length.. or strength.(?)
The washer method, although a PIA way, seems to work best (for me). I add 2 and often get 70 psi.. if not, 3 gets me there (working from the base line reading). #4 SS is best, but Brass works too. They both make a good Seat.. for the spring, IN.. the sleeve.
Joe
* Seems I read here on SDD recently.. something about being able to get a Spring from IH with a 70 psi Spec ? Maybe IHC Power would know about that ??
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