DieselDemon
SDD Junior Member
Can anyone out there tell me the parts list for the AC Mod for my truck. Going to try to get the parts tomorrow.
Thanks,
Chris R.
Thanks,
Chris R.
AC Mod
- Thread starter DieselDemon
- Start date
rickh
Biodiesel Rules!
Vacuum shut off to fit a 96 Ranger with AC is what I used.
But I suppose any will do. Heck the one on my 71 C20 looks like it would work.
Theroy is to apply vacuum when AC is switched on closing the hot water flow through the heater core in the cab.
So it would have to be a normally open valve.
Rick H...
But I suppose any will do. Heck the one on my 71 C20 looks like it would work.
Theroy is to apply vacuum when AC is switched on closing the hot water flow through the heater core in the cab.
So it would have to be a normally open valve.
Rick H...
Darth_Stroker
Dark Lord of the Sith
Here you go chris... did ya get some ideas at the NTXPSA rally on sat?
http://forums.thedieselstop.com/ubb...er=2452131&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=all&vc=1
Alan
http://forums.thedieselstop.com/ubb...er=2452131&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=all&vc=1
Alan
Last edited:
95_stroker
Jefe
AC MOD
It will stop the flow of hot water through the heater core when the AC controlls are in the MAX setting and the OFF position providing cooler temps and preventing the hot pocket of air down by you feet. I went to NAPA and asked for the 'hot water shut off valve' from a 1990 Ford Ranger with a 4.0 V-6, I also got 4 - 5/8 hose clamps, a couple feet of 1/8" vaccume line a a 1/8" plastic "T" for the vaccume line. To begin the install loosen the cap on the radiator overfill to remove pressure from the system (do this while the engine is cool). On the passenger side of the engine compartment there are 2 - 5/8" hoses that come from the firewall and continue to the engine, these are the heater hoses. Cut the hose closest to the drivers side (It does'nt really matter where, I did mine about 6 inches after the fire wall). Then holding the 'shut off valve' with the vaccume controller twards the pass side install the portion of the heater hose coming from the cab to the top left nipple on the 'shut off valve'. Tighten the clamp. Install the portion of the heater hose coming from the engine to the top right nipple and tighten the clamp. Next cut the heater hose closest to the pass side in the same location as the previous. Install the portion coming from the cab on the lower left nipple, tighten the clamp. Now install the portion going to the engine on the lower right and tighten the clamp. Measure out how much of the 1/8" vaccume line you need to reach from the bottom of the vaccume canister on the shut off valve to the white vaccume line on the pass side that goes to the vaccume operated door underneath the pass side cowl. Cut that white vaccume line and splice in the 1/8" plastic "T". Then run the 1/8" vaccume line you meassured out from that plastic "T" to the nipple on the bottom of the vaccume canister on the shut off valve. It sounds more complicated than it is.
It will stop the flow of hot water through the heater core when the AC controlls are in the MAX setting and the OFF position providing cooler temps and preventing the hot pocket of air down by you feet. I went to NAPA and asked for the 'hot water shut off valve' from a 1990 Ford Ranger with a 4.0 V-6, I also got 4 - 5/8 hose clamps, a couple feet of 1/8" vaccume line a a 1/8" plastic "T" for the vaccume line. To begin the install loosen the cap on the radiator overfill to remove pressure from the system (do this while the engine is cool). On the passenger side of the engine compartment there are 2 - 5/8" hoses that come from the firewall and continue to the engine, these are the heater hoses. Cut the hose closest to the drivers side (It does'nt really matter where, I did mine about 6 inches after the fire wall). Then holding the 'shut off valve' with the vaccume controller twards the pass side install the portion of the heater hose coming from the cab to the top left nipple on the 'shut off valve'. Tighten the clamp. Install the portion of the heater hose coming from the engine to the top right nipple and tighten the clamp. Next cut the heater hose closest to the pass side in the same location as the previous. Install the portion coming from the cab on the lower left nipple, tighten the clamp. Now install the portion going to the engine on the lower right and tighten the clamp. Measure out how much of the 1/8" vaccume line you need to reach from the bottom of the vaccume canister on the shut off valve to the white vaccume line on the pass side that goes to the vaccume operated door underneath the pass side cowl. Cut that white vaccume line and splice in the 1/8" plastic "T". Then run the 1/8" vaccume line you meassured out from that plastic "T" to the nipple on the bottom of the vaccume canister on the shut off valve. It sounds more complicated than it is.
DieselDemon
SDD Junior Member
Darth_Stroker said:
Yeah actually I did. I really love how cold my bros AC blew as we were going up there so I decided that it was time to do the AC Mod on my rig. I finally got it on yesterday and man do I love it worth everybit of the $25 bucks I spent. Its great
. Now I just got to keep my finger out my money until I can afford some guage and a chip the truck is a little on the slow side right now but Im working on it . Thanks to all ya'll for the help ya'll gave me
.Chris R.
Darth_Stroker
Dark Lord of the Sith
Just be careful, when the HP train starts rollin' it's hard to stop. My truck was stock march 05.
Alan
My truck was stock march 05. Alan
CHPMustang
Senior Member
Mike isn't the kit that Bob Riley carries pretty similar to the DIY parts list and installation you listed?
