I did look there...
lv-
i did look there- their search just plain sux big rocks.
this is the best that i found. thing is i >think< that there needs to be a check valve in there somewhere based on pics i have found about aftermarket coolers. anyone know if a check valve is required for the cooler?
also, the stock 7.3 cooler, the lines enter and exit from the top. on the 6.0, the enter and exit from the bottom. how do you burp the 6.0 cooler once installed. I can see an air bubble forming in there, excatly like a water hammer arrestor on house plumbing.
"Open the hood and pull the rubber flap ontop in front of rad and down below.
Remove the 1 bolt that holds the drivers side of the condensor in place, this will allow room to bring it out thru the top.
Remove the two bolts that hold the hood latch in place.
Now remove the 4 bolts that hold the cooler in place, one on each mounting bracket, I popped the grill off to make this a little easier.
Now follow the hard lines coming from the tranny when they end and go to rubber allow one line about 6" and one about 8" and cut the rubber lines, now pull the old cooler out from the top drivers side first.
Putting a rag over the top of the condensor will save your arms from looking like you got in a cat fight. Now using the brass fittings you got at the hardware store, these are barbed fittings that allow you to go from 3/8 line 1/2 , put the fittings in the 3/8 line and secure with hose clamps.
Reinstall the new cooler opposite the way the old one came out.
Now attatch the 1/2 lines to the cooler and run to the other end of the brass fittings.
You will need an extra 1 1/2 quarts of fluid with this new cooler.
For those that have the rad cooler, you simply covert the line size between the rad cooler and the new cooler."
