Here is a link to their site: custom HID conversions, HID kits, LED, CCFL specialists - retrosolutions I think the kit was around $180. It depends on the type of stock bulb you have. I haven't noticed any issues of discoloration on my lenses.
I am running a retro-solutions 55w 6K HID kit. Kit comes with everything and has high and low beam. Pretty good pattern through my '04 lenses. The kit is a little more expensive than most of the stuff on ebay but in this case, I think you get what you pay for.
I had a difficult time getting the correct box. Apparently the boxes changed right about when my truck was built (2000). If you get a new box and the pitman arm will not line up correctly, you may need the other version.
Scott
Test drive complete. It is a much smoother ride.
Couple of tips:
Use a straight edge long enough to span the boot and make two marks on each side of the boot to ensure proper alignment during re-assembly.
Use a punch to mark each side. Divots will not wash off.
If you are gentle...
Had to modify the exaust due to a malignant tumor known as the muffler.(apparently it did not enjoy our Christmas in salt country) Exhaust is now 4" straight pipe exiting in front of the rear tire.
Here is what I did for the rear.
http://www.superdutydiesel.com/forums/mobile-audio-video-electronics/18219-2008-back-up-camera-system-installed-write-up.html?highlight=2008+tailgate
As far as front and rear you could probably get two licence plate camera kits and run them through a switch...
If the rubber thing is between the transmission (t-case on 4x4) and the rear diff. it is the carrier bearing. By 1/2" play I assume up and down. My new carrier bearing has about 1/8"-1/4" play. Easiest way to replace is to remove the driveshaft and take it and a new carrier bearing to a shop...
Take a close look at the hubs. With ESOF the hubs should have "Auto" and "Lock". When in "Auto" the hubs will lock using vacume (will not be immediate). When in "Lock" the hubs will be mechanically locked.
Greased both front and rear slip yokes. Both were pretty dry but not frozen. I will find out Monday during my commute if this fixed the problem. Only had about 3 degrees of play on the pinion.
Installed IH bellowed up pipes, replaced turbo pedestal o-rings, and cleaned the valley. Also removed the cancer ridden portions of my exhaust (muffler back). Rigged up a side exit in front of the tire until I can get a new kit ordered. Greased both slip-yokes.
Whenever I let of the throttle and then back on the truck seems to buck. It feels like the the entire driveline is disengaging and then re-engaging very harshly. I do have some rotational play in the rear pinion so any advice on how much is acceptable would be appreciated.
Scott
I have Grover Emergency horns. They are LOUD. With a 7 gallon supply of 150 psi they will blow for a loooonnnnngggg time. Take a look at ebay. I am using a VIAIR compressor and I scored a tank from a junkyard.
It would probably be easier to:
a. Buy a heavier aftermarket bumper.
b. Install an '08 style tailgate with backup camera.
c. All of the above.
Example:
I have had my Smitty Built bars since 2003. Easy installation and you don't need to mess with body mounts. They mount just like the factory running boards. No rust on the bars. I have had to pull the mounts off and sand/re-paint with spray on bed liner. With the amount of salt DOT uses I...
I am also interested in the results. I'm 5 hours away from Bill and have been thinking about getting an Adreneline HPOP and re-tuning before I leave GA. Are you still running Stage I singles?