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those magazines are crap-don't believe everything that they publish.
yes, you have an issue with fuel contamination in the oil. seems that folks benefit from a re-flash to reduce or eliminate it. related to regen function. search here, there is some recent threads on it...
doug-
i did not mean turn the thing off. i meant put the shifter into N from D. engine still runs, you still have power assist on the brakes and the steering. that you can do at ANY TIME.
same lack of training and preparedness with the dumb a$hes in the toyotas who claimed they would run...
umm, i know that its easy to comment after the fact, but why couldn't you drop the thing into neutral from drive? same thing goes for using the emergency brake, though it would probably burn up pretty quick trying to stop the truck from 60mpg.
if it holds pressure from the output side of the solenoid to the hubs, then i would not worry about checking them at the hub. you basically tested it all the way to the bottom.
i suspect that you have a funky solenoid or broken connection upstream of the solenoid.
sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere.
how are you testing the lockout hubs? i would check at the hub with a mightyvac and short piece of tubing to actuate the hub, then at the solenoid to check for leaks between the solenoid and the hub then upstream of the solenoid to check the...
you are partially correct, you are paying for Bob's QUALITY kit and instructions, the stocking of the parts, and shipping it to you. Buying from him keeps the lights on around here.
its time or money, take your pick.
that picture is misleading. this is what it should look like. that one looks like its missing the diaphragm actuator.
click here
More Information for MOTORCRAFT YG350
and here...
to do the ball valve way, you really need three.
you need to isolate the loop to the heater and provide a bypass for the coolant in the system. you need 2 T's and 3 valves.
i will try to draw it in asci text. ignore the periods, they are placeholders
----T---X---- return from heater core...
It might be helpful to include relevant information for the recall too:
Vehicle Make / Model: Model Year(s):
FORD / F-150 1997-2004
FORD / F-250 1997-1999
LINCOLN / BLACKWOOD 2002-2003
Manufacturer: FORD MOTOR COMPANY Mfr's Report Date: JUL 29, 2011...
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delete the current picture, then upload the new one.
upload the avatar from your computer, the maximum size of your custom image is 300 by 300 pixels or 64.0 KB.
ignore the sticker on the pump.
go into the station and ask them to see their loading ticket. look at what it says the fuel is. then look it up to make sure.
in its chemisty and additive package, ULSD is naturally 43-45 cetane.
if your truck is a '10 and under warranty. go to the dealer. at least document the problem for later on down the road. it will be in the computer system.
cetane is NOT octane. throwing in cetane booster actually LOWERS the energy content of the fuel and your mileage will go down. all it is...
the sticker just lists the LEGAL parameters the truck can be safely operated within. it dont men squat.
to really know, get your truck weighed. iirc, i think i paid like $7 to get weighed at the CAT scale at a truck stop once with a fill up. also take into account the weight of fuel or how...
i'd check the power dist block under the hood and the fuel pump before i checked the tank. you have to either drop the tank or pull the bed to get the cover off.
retrace your steps when you were tracing wires.
check all the wiring bundle connectors.
check the PCM wiring harness to make sure its seated.
check your oil- low oil will trip a safety.
do you have a chip? check your batteries. some chips dont behave well with low voltage.
i would...
dont forget the pickup screen in the tank. it can get plugged up with jung/goo even though the fuel tank is poly.
also check your fuel pump fittings. they are the quick disconnect type. they CAN and WILL suck in air,leading to the same condition that you are describing, an airlocked fuel...