Ford_Forgotton
Full Access Member
May as well get this out of the road. The INFAMOUS CPS thread.
If there is any ONE failure, that can almost be gauranteed on a 7.3 liter powerstroke, its the failure of the CPS.
The CPS is called many things. Ford calls it a "Synchronizer". International calls it a CAMP or CMP. Both names mean one thing. Camshaft Position Sensor.
The failure could be random, such as the truck just randomly dies for no reason, but restarts quickly and runs fine. The failure could also be absolute. Truck dies, never to start again. Or it could be a combination of both, truck dies, but if you wait 10 mins, it will restart.
The CPS failure hardly ever sets a "check engine" light, if you DO get a light, scan for the following codes:
p0340: Inactive CMP signal detected during engine cranking when ICP pressure was sufficient for starting.
p0341: Electrical noise detected, check wire routing and grounds.
p0344: Incorrect number of sync to transition counts detected, possible intermittent CMP sensor/circuit fault.
If you find any of those codes, replace your CPS and check your connectors.
However, the majority of CPS failures will not give you those codes. Another troubleshooting trick must be used, but this one only works on trucks 2001 and older WITHOUT the factory transmission temp gauge in the dash.
On 2001 and older trucks, you can use the TACH needle to troubleshoot a CPS failure. During a long, extended crank with no start, the TACH needle should bounce ever so slightly. Maybe 100 RPM or so. If you have an AIC (Ford Automatic Idle Controller, or APCM) installed, the digital display should also display a low RPM. If you get NO NEEDLE MOVEMENT, and/or NO AIC RPM DISPLAY, its very likely you have a failed CPS. Again, this trick does NOT WORK on 2002 and newer trucks with the factory transmission temp gauge.
Part numbers:
Ford Part Number for mid 97 and newer trucks is F7TZ-12K073-A
Ford Part Number for mid 97 and OLDER trucks is F6TZ-12K073-A
International goes by Serial number:
Engine Serial # 375548 and below is part# 1821720-C99 (mid 97 trucks and older, engine build date of mid 96 and down)
Engine Serial # 375549 and up is part # 1825899-C93 (Mid 97 trucks and newer, engine build date of mid 96 and up)
NAPA Part CSS-512
The Engine serial number is located on a machined pad by the oil filter. You should see something that looks like "7.4 HU2 U *XXXXXX* " where the X's are the serial number.
The difference between the two parts is the electrical connector. All things considered, the two parts are identical with the exception of the connector material. The older trucks use a "tinned" silver color contact, and the newer trucks use a "gold" colored contact. The only reason not to mix them is dissimiliar metals could corrode over time. If you have a mid-97 truck, you should either check the engine serial number, or pull your CPS connector and check the color of the pins on the connector. In an emergency, ANY CPS WILL WORK ON ANY YEAR 7.3 POWERSTROKE.
OK, enough with the history and troubleshooting.
How to fix it.
First, locate a replacement CPS. Ford, International, NAPA, and EBAY all carry the CPS. Ford is most expensive at over 200 dollars. International is around 100 dollars. Napa claims 125 bucks, and Ebay can range from 50-120 depending on the seller and demand. HOWEVER, thru special arraingement for SuperDutyDiesel visitors, www.powerstrokeshop.com sells the correct International/Ford CPS for around 90 dollars.
ALWAYS carry a SPARE CPS in the glovebox, it WILL FAIL, and it will do it at the WORST possible time. Be Prepared!
To fix it, your going to need a 10mm wrench (or socket with a short 3" extension, experiment at home to find the exact tool you think you will need if stranded on the side of the road, at night, in the cold and rain). A flathead screwdriver, and a replacement CPS.
Locate the CPS. It is on the passenger side of the engine block. Accesible from under the truck, and located about the 10 o'clock position behind the crankshaft front pulley. Reach up and unplug the wiring harness, remove the 10mm bolt, and GENTLY pry the bad CPS out with the flat screwdriver. The bolt may be VERY TIGHT. Do not round it off. Make sure you have the socket or wrench on SQUARE before really torqing on it. It may even help to break it loose and retighten while at home, to make sure it can be removed easily when broke down on the side of the road.
If your old CPS has shims, do not re-use them with the new CPS. Tolerances have been tightened with the newer CPS' and shims should not be needed.
CLICK HERE FOR A PICTURE
Installation is opposite of removal. Make sure to put a little engine oil on the new sensor's O-ring to easy installation. Tighten and start your truck!
If your truck STILL doesnt start, you've got bigger issues.
If there is any ONE failure, that can almost be gauranteed on a 7.3 liter powerstroke, its the failure of the CPS.
The CPS is called many things. Ford calls it a "Synchronizer". International calls it a CAMP or CMP. Both names mean one thing. Camshaft Position Sensor.
The failure could be random, such as the truck just randomly dies for no reason, but restarts quickly and runs fine. The failure could also be absolute. Truck dies, never to start again. Or it could be a combination of both, truck dies, but if you wait 10 mins, it will restart.
The CPS failure hardly ever sets a "check engine" light, if you DO get a light, scan for the following codes:
p0340: Inactive CMP signal detected during engine cranking when ICP pressure was sufficient for starting.
p0341: Electrical noise detected, check wire routing and grounds.
p0344: Incorrect number of sync to transition counts detected, possible intermittent CMP sensor/circuit fault.
If you find any of those codes, replace your CPS and check your connectors.
However, the majority of CPS failures will not give you those codes. Another troubleshooting trick must be used, but this one only works on trucks 2001 and older WITHOUT the factory transmission temp gauge in the dash.
On 2001 and older trucks, you can use the TACH needle to troubleshoot a CPS failure. During a long, extended crank with no start, the TACH needle should bounce ever so slightly. Maybe 100 RPM or so. If you have an AIC (Ford Automatic Idle Controller, or APCM) installed, the digital display should also display a low RPM. If you get NO NEEDLE MOVEMENT, and/or NO AIC RPM DISPLAY, its very likely you have a failed CPS. Again, this trick does NOT WORK on 2002 and newer trucks with the factory transmission temp gauge.
Part numbers:
Ford Part Number for mid 97 and newer trucks is F7TZ-12K073-A
Ford Part Number for mid 97 and OLDER trucks is F6TZ-12K073-A
International goes by Serial number:
Engine Serial # 375548 and below is part# 1821720-C99 (mid 97 trucks and older, engine build date of mid 96 and down)
Engine Serial # 375549 and up is part # 1825899-C93 (Mid 97 trucks and newer, engine build date of mid 96 and up)
NAPA Part CSS-512
The Engine serial number is located on a machined pad by the oil filter. You should see something that looks like "7.4 HU2 U *XXXXXX* " where the X's are the serial number.
The difference between the two parts is the electrical connector. All things considered, the two parts are identical with the exception of the connector material. The older trucks use a "tinned" silver color contact, and the newer trucks use a "gold" colored contact. The only reason not to mix them is dissimiliar metals could corrode over time. If you have a mid-97 truck, you should either check the engine serial number, or pull your CPS connector and check the color of the pins on the connector. In an emergency, ANY CPS WILL WORK ON ANY YEAR 7.3 POWERSTROKE.
OK, enough with the history and troubleshooting.
How to fix it.
First, locate a replacement CPS. Ford, International, NAPA, and EBAY all carry the CPS. Ford is most expensive at over 200 dollars. International is around 100 dollars. Napa claims 125 bucks, and Ebay can range from 50-120 depending on the seller and demand. HOWEVER, thru special arraingement for SuperDutyDiesel visitors, www.powerstrokeshop.com sells the correct International/Ford CPS for around 90 dollars.
ALWAYS carry a SPARE CPS in the glovebox, it WILL FAIL, and it will do it at the WORST possible time. Be Prepared!To fix it, your going to need a 10mm wrench (or socket with a short 3" extension, experiment at home to find the exact tool you think you will need if stranded on the side of the road, at night, in the cold and rain). A flathead screwdriver, and a replacement CPS.
Locate the CPS. It is on the passenger side of the engine block. Accesible from under the truck, and located about the 10 o'clock position behind the crankshaft front pulley. Reach up and unplug the wiring harness, remove the 10mm bolt, and GENTLY pry the bad CPS out with the flat screwdriver. The bolt may be VERY TIGHT. Do not round it off. Make sure you have the socket or wrench on SQUARE before really torqing on it. It may even help to break it loose and retighten while at home, to make sure it can be removed easily when broke down on the side of the road.
If your old CPS has shims, do not re-use them with the new CPS. Tolerances have been tightened with the newer CPS' and shims should not be needed.
CLICK HERE FOR A PICTURE
Installation is opposite of removal. Make sure to put a little engine oil on the new sensor's O-ring to easy installation. Tighten and start your truck!
If your truck STILL doesnt start, you've got bigger issues.
